Kalamkari is a fine traditional art that developed
in the southern state of Andhra Pradesh, India, sometime in the 16th or 17th
century A.D. there were two distinctive styles which evolved on their own, each
with their own flavour.
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One style had free hand drawing and filling in of colors. Since
the art flourished close to Hindu temples and also given the patronage of Hindu
ings ruling at that time, subjects were generally around temple objects,
paintings, sculpture, wall hangings, chariots, temple banners, deities, and
scenes from the epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata, and mythological stories. The
other flowered sometime during Mughal rule and themes were generally to do with
nature, flora and fauna.
Both have
continued wonderfully since then and the current Kalamkari involves
a mix of both styles. Today Kalamkari has also come
to mean hand block printing with the pen used for drawing finer details and
also filling in the colors in the gaps.
The essence of Kalamkari
Kalamkari, meaning craftsmanship
through the use of a pen, is an ethnic art involving hand-painting or block
printing on Sarees. The Kalamkari was originally
hand-painting on cotton fabrics to elevate their looks. Today it loosely
includes free hand-painting on any cotton fabric through the use of vegetable
dyes. Once, only cotton fabrics had kalamkari done on them. Today it
includes silk, and blends too. Kalamkari painting is an arduous
process of dyeing and hand printing. Several stages of washing and treatment to
the fabric prior to the painting and after it, is undergone before the final
product is ready.Natural dyes are employed for colours, in Kalamkari,
with cotton, silk, crepe, georgette being the usual fabrics as canvas for this
art. Myrobalan along with buffalo milk is used for fixing of colour reagents.
Myrobalan is preferred for its high tannin content which helps adhesion. For
drawing the contours and fine lines, the Kalam or pen is used. Sometimes it is
also for doing the coloured lines. The pen could be a bamboo piece that would
be dipped in fermented jaggery.
pure handloom |
Kalamkari is experimented as patch work on other
fabrics in various colour combinations. Motifs are some of the popular subjects
like trees, creepers, flowers, leaves and birds.
tradirtional |
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